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| Ed's Wine of the Week Archive The
goal and purpose of the WINE OF THE WEEK column is to present
a practical
guide to becoming a more informed and confident wine buyer, and to help
expand
one's range of tastes. A woman recently told me that every time she
enters a
wine shop she is so overwhelmed and intimidated by the number
of bottles
and the varieties of wines, that she ends up going straight to the same
old
wine, even though she finds it boring. Wine is a beverage of pleasure;
there is
no need to ever drink a boring wine. |
| SEPTEMBER 20, 2008 WRONGO DONGO JUMILLA RED WINE SPAIN  EYES, NOSE, MOUTH. For a total
experience of a wine or food, all three senses should be utilized.EYES. First, hold the glass of wine eye-level, and feast on the color. Wrongo Dongo, from the Jumilla region of south-east Spain, has a deep, dense, purple (almost black) color, a hint of the richness and intensity of the wine. This is no whimpy wine. NOSE. Next, smell the aromas: the super-ripe berry fruit, the sweet and exotic spices. MOUTH. And, finally, let the wine linger in the mouth, taste the flavors: intense, full-bodied, earthy, smooth, blacks fruits, chocolate licorice, vanilla oak, low acidity, sweet, soft, well-balanced tannin. Funny name, a wonderful wine. A warm wine for the cool nights of Autumn. Foods: tacos, burgers, grilled meats, barbecue. September 6, 2008 LADYBUG RED CUVEE VII LOLONIS WINERY REDWOOD VALLEY, CALIFORNIA  Ladybug
Red, a blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel, and Carignan wines, is made from
organically
grown grapes, which means that the grapes are grown without fungicides,
pesticides, or chemical fertilizers. However, this wine cannot be
called an
organic wine, because it is not produced without additives or
preservatives.
Let me try to clarify. During the fermentation process, when yeast and
the
sugar of the grapes combine to produce alcohol, sulfites
naturally occur. Yes,
there are sulfites in ALL wines. Various labels state: no sulfites
added; no
sulfites detectable; contains sulfites. So, sulfites, however much the
amount,
are always present. In addition to the sulfites naturally occurring,
most
vintners (wine makers) add sulfites to stabilize the wine: sulfites
kill
bacteria and prevent the wine from oxidizing. Those vintners that don't
add
sulfites run the risk of a spoiled wine and wines with a short
shelf-life.
Those that add too much sulfites create a smell like rotten eggs. Thus,
the
artistry of wine-making. Ladybug Red contains low levels of added
sulfites.
Those of you who are allergic to sulfites should not drink wine. If you
wish,
come to Harney's, and we can discuss this further. Now to account for the name of this wine. Grapes top the list of the most chemically sprayed categories of produce. To counteract this, in part, millions of Ladybugs are released into the vineyards at Lolonis Winery, to devour harmful insects. The blend of the four different grapes creates layers of complexity, each grape contributing an unique characteristic: the depth of flavor from the Cabernet; the soft, luscious fruit from the Merlot; the spicy fruit from the Zinfandel ; the dark color from the Carignan. The wine, made from vines that are at least 40 years old (age adds character and depth), is full-bodied, unfiltered, softly textured, deeply-colored, and intensely flavored. The predominant aromas and flavors are blackberry and plum, with hints of cocoa and oak. So delicious. Those of you who are fans of the red blends: Menage a Trois, Marietta, Coppola's Rosso, will be sure to add Ladybug Red to the list of their favorite wines. (A note about the meaning of CUVEE VII: it simply means that this is the seventh production of the blend.) AUGUST 23, 2008 CHAPOUTIER "BELLERUCHE" 2007 COTES DU RHONE ROSE  Don't
stop reading because you saw the word Rose. This
wine is not
syrupy sweet, as the vast majority of Rose wines were in the past (and
still
are), especially in America. "Belleruche Rose is a dry (not sweet)
wine.
Among the most confusing wines terms is the distinction between dry and
sweet.
Fruity and sweet are not synonyms: you can have a fruity wine that is
sweet,
and you can have a fruity wines that is dry; fruity means flavor, sweet
means
sugar. Confusing? Perhaps. If you hold your nose and drink a
wine, what
your mouth tastes is sweetness/sugar (or lack thereof). Rose wines are pink wines, as are Blush wines that are called "white". Confused? I am. So, a White Zinfandel and a White Merlot, etcetera, are really pink wines are really Blush wines are really Rose wines. Enough of this silliness! Although Rose wines are made from red grapes, the wines aren't red because the grape juice is left in contact with the red skins for a very short time - only a few hours, compared to days and weeks for red wines. Because the skin contact is brief, very little tannin is absorbed from the skins in Rose wines. "Belleruche" is a dry Rose, a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah (Shiraz). The wine is light and crisp with just a hint of sweetness. There are subtle flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. Because it is a dry wine, it is very food-friendly and goes with a wide range of foods. WINE FOR DUMMIES, an excellent reference book, suggests 10 occasions to drink Rose, and I quote: 1. When she's having fish and he's having meat (or vice versa) 2. When a red wine just seems too heavy 3. With lunch: hamburger, grilled cheese, and so on 4. On picnics on warm, sunny days 5. To wean your son/daughter, mate, friend, yourself, off cola 6. With Sunday brunches and egg dishes 7. To celebrate the arrival of spring or summer 8. With ham (hot or cold) or other pork dishes 9. When you feel like putting ice cubes in your wine 10. On Valentine's Day (or any other pink occasion) AUGUST 9, 2008 THE CROSSINGS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2007 MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND  So
very far away, and yet, a sip of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc takes me
immediately halfway around the globe, to the Marlborough region in the
north-east corner of the South Island, and, in this case, to the
Awatere area,
where The Crossings vineyards are located. Strange - isn't it? - how a
taste, a
smell, a sound, can transport one to a particular place on Earth, or,
back in
time, to a particular person or experience. The smell of Patchouli,
which a
recent customer was wearing, brought me back, for better or for worse,
to the
1960's.Here at Harney's, we have several examples of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: Nobilo, Monkey Bay, Oyster Bay, Villa Maria, Brancott, Tohu, to name just a few, each one with a distinctive aroma and flavor, reflecting a particular area within the Marlborough region. The best way to illustrate this distinctiveness, would be to taste them side by side. For instance, I could talk on and on about the differences between an oaky Chardonnay (La Crema) and a Chardonnay that has been stainless steel-fermented (Ardeche), but tasting the two side by side would save a thousand words. The differences would be immediately evident. The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc 2007 has a pale yellow-green color, with powerful aromas and flavors of lime, grapefruit, kiwi, and herbal notes. It has a zesty acidity and, characteristic of the Awatere area, flinty mineral. All of these elements are perfectly integrated and balanced. As with so many New Zealand wines, The Crossings has a screwcap, which makes it easy and convenient, and also the screwcap ensures quality control: no chance of a musty cork tainting the wine. Drink young, within 2 years, before the herbal components can turn the wine bitter. Serve as an aperitif, with crisp, leafy summer salads, and with sharp cheese. Robert Panker, the highly respected wine critic, rates The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc 2007: 89 points. July 26, 2008 MORE SUMMER REDS RIOJA ANTANO TEMPRANILLO 2006 SPAIN KELLEY CREEK 2005 DRY CREEK VALLEY SONOMA COUNTY CALIFORNIA We have so many good wines here at Harney's, that it is always difficult for me to limit the WINE OF THE WEEK to just one wine. I'm always afraid that I'm never going to have enough time to share them all with you. I am very excited about two new red wines. They are so different in style, but both of them are so satisfying. Speaking about different wines and different styles, I have always felt that we should be able to enjoy all good wines (the emphasis being on good): red, white, and rose; an oaky Chardonnay as well as one that is stainless steel-fermented; a fruit-driven, dry, crisp Sauvignon Blanc, from New Zealand, of course; a luscious Merlot from the Columbia Valley; a many-layered Cabernet and a spicy Zinfandel from California; the great Vernaccia, an oily-rich white wine from Italy; a Chianti from Tuscany, a Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris from Oregon, etcetera, etcetera. I could go on and on. Each one is uniquely satisfying. Why deprive oneself of any unique taste! The Rioja is a typical (I do not mean ordinary by any means) Tempranillo: rustic and earthy, oaky, with refreshing acidity, soft tannin, and intense flavor concentration, with aromas and flavors of cassis, blackberry, and hints of spice. The perfect accompaniment to burgers and barbecued meats. Kelley Creek is a Bordeaux-style blend: 67% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc. Because of the high amount of Merlot, this wine is fruit-forward with blackberry, plum, and cherry aromas and flavors, and it is immediately drinkable. The style is elegant and refined, velvety and smooth from start to finish. It's a wine that makes people smile when they taste it. For maximum enjoyment, especially now in the hot summer months, the ideal serving temperature for these two red wines is between 62 - 67. July 12, 2008 COLUMBIA CREST GRAND ESTATES CHARDONNAY 2006 COLUMBIA VALLEY WASHINGTON STATE  Once again I find myself
singing the praises of a Washington State wine.
Previously, this column featured Red Diamond Merlot, a luscious wine
with a
velvety texture and a satisfying layer of spice; and Covey Run, a
semi-sweet
wine, with intense aromas and flavors of peach and nectarine, and just
the
right amount of acidity to make it very refreshing. Both wines are big
sellers
here at Harney's.People still look surprised when I recommend a wine from Washington State. "Can a good wine come out of Washington State," their look seems to say. Washington State is the second largest producer of wines in the United States. The Columbia Valley, located to the east of the Cascade Mountains, has near-perfect growing conditions for grape vines: it is desert-like, with hot days and cool nights; it has an abundance of run-off water from the Cascades which is controlled by a vast irrigation system; it averages two hours more sunlight during midsummer than the Napa Valley; and, of course, it has a rich, volcanic soil (some of which has come from, undoubtedly, Mt. St. Helen's). Columbia Crest, the largest winery in Washington State, is known for its well-crafted wines of consistent quality and immediate appeal, and at affordable prices. Grand Estates Chardonnay 2006 is an intense, flavorful, and elegant wine. It is dry, with a balanced acidity, and fruit-driven with aromas and flavors of apple, pear, melon, and creamy butter. Wine Spectator rating: 90 points June 28, 2008 SUMMER REDS Every year, as we approach the hot months of summer, I often hear: "I don't drink red wine in the summer;" and, "I don't like the taste of red wine when It's hot out." There is no reason to give up all red wines for the summer, whatever the reason. The right red wine served at the right temperature will bring pleasure throughout the summer. Let me illustrate this by telling a story about a trip to Italy years ago. It was a hot day, and we (two friends and I), feeling tired after a long day of touring, had just sat down to dinner in a nearby restaurant. I was looking forward to a bottle of Vernaccia, my favorite Italian white wine - arguably Italy's best white wine - a particularly rich (oily, greasy, fat) wine with a hint of almonds. Without our requesting it, the first thing the waiter did was bring us a complimentary bottle of red wine, a bottle of chilled red wine. It happened to be a Santa Cristina, by Antinori. The three of us looked at each other in surprise. Surely someone had made a mistake! But we decided that, since Italy had a tradition of making and serving wine for thousands of years, what did we know! When in Italy, do as the Italians. The bottle felt chilled, not cold. Because of the heat, and because of past experiences with red wine in summer, I was expecting a red wine to taste flat and flabby, with its bouquet diffuse and unfocused, and the alcohol seeming higher than it should be, creating a burning sensation in my mouth; or, since it was chilled, perhaps there would be no flavor at all. What a refreshing, flavorful treat the Santa Cristina was! The right red wine at the right temperature. Now I wouldn't chill a 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon from California, because the rich taste would be compromised; and I wouldn't chill a Cotes du Rhone from France, because the flavor would all but disappear. But a wine like Beaujolais: a light, fruity wine, or even a Vina Borgia: a 100% Garnacha from Spain, or a Santa Cristina (of course) can be chilled without sacrificing flavor and enjoyment. In general, I feel that we, in America, serve white wines too cold (so cold sometimes that it's hard to distinguish the varietal), and red wines too warm, sacrificing flavor. The ideal temperature for fine red wines is 62 - 67 degrees; for white wines 55 - 60 degrees. A Summer Red is at its optimum, I feel, at around 60 degrees. I suggest refrigerating the bottle for 20 to 30 minutes before serving. Don't be afraid; experiment. Come to Harney's and experience the pleasure of a Summer Red. June 14, 2008 MASCIARELLI MONTEPULCIANO d'ABRUZZO ITALIAN DRY RED WINE  The
word: Montepuliciano, in this case, refers to a grape variety, and not
to a town in Tuscany, Italy. As a grape, Montepulciano is a
late-ripening variety that performs best in the Abruzzo region of Italy
(east-central Italy; east of Rome), where its wines are very deep in
color, and can be either full and soft, with luscious fruit, as in this
version, or made into a much firmer, more tannic style, as in
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, La Valentina. Both styles are very satisfying.
I just now used the words: performs best, just as the Sauvignon Blanc
grape seems to perform best in the Marlborough region of New Zealand,
as Malbec seems to perform best in the Mendoza region of Argentina, as
Merlot seems to perform best in Pomerol, France; in Tuscany, Italy; and
in the Columbia Valley, Washington State. The particular grape in
question seems to attain its maximum flavor in a particular region,
owing to near-perfect growing conditions.MASCIARELLI MONTEPULCIANO d'ABRUZZO, which may be blended with up to 15% Sangiovese, is an inexpensive and easy-drinking wine, with low tannins, and low acidity. It is rustic and earthy in character, an excellent accompaniment to hamburgers, and grilled, marinated Portabella mushroom caps. A good, everyday wine, if you like the style. May 31, 2008 COVEY RUN RIESLING COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON STATE  Washington
is the second largest wine-producing state, after California. Most of
the grapes are grown east of the Cascades (a north-south mountain
range) in desert-like conditions that provide an ideal climate of warm
days and cool nights, producing grapes with intense fruit and lively
acidity. Run-off water from the Cascades is plentiful, and is
controlled by extensive and inexpensive irrigation. Elsewhere in the
wine world, grape growers and vintners (wine makers) are at the mercy
of rain, but here, in the Columbia Valley, they can control the amount
of water reaching the vines.(Please consult the Wine of the Week Archives: Red Diamond Merlot, for a fuller description of the geography and the growing conditions of this region.) Few wines at Harney's have received a more universal acceptance than Covey Run Riesling. Not as complex as the Rieslings of Germany and Alsace, France, it has a slightly sweet style, with medium-body, a silky texture, low in alcohol, well-balanced between sweetness and acidity, with intense and distinctive honeysuckle, nectarine, and peach aromas and flavors. It is the ideal summer-sipping and pinic wine. Serve as an aperitif, with mild cheeses, roasted white meats, ham, and spicy dishes. Covey Run Riesling, an easy and inexpensive wine to produce, is bargain-priced: the perfect cash-flow wine. May 17, 2008 BORSAO 2006 BODEGAS BORSAO RED WINE SPAIN  After
Italy and France, Spain is the third largest wine-producing nation in
the world. Spain has more land under vines than any other country in
the world, and can claim a 3,000 year history of wine.Borsao is a blend of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo. Garnacha, similar to the Grenache grape grown in France, where it is the principal grape in a Cotes du Rhone, is one of the most widely planted red wine grapes in Spain; Tempranillo is the finest indigenous red wine grape of Spain. Borsao is medium-bodied and dry (as opposed to sweet, which refers to sugar; fruity refers to aroma and flavor, not sweetness, so a wine can be both fruity and dry). The Garnacha grape contributes an ink-dark color, aromas of kirsch, black currant, black pepper, and hints of licorice; the Tempranillo grape adds acidity, tannin, and intense berry and black raspberry flavors. At $9.99, Borsao is a superb value. It certainly dispels the myth that a wine has to be expensive to be good. A customer recently said, "I want to get a white wine as a gift for someone who knows wine." I suggested, of course, Gentil "Hugel" from Alsace, France, my favorite white wine here at Harney's. The customer looked at the price, which was under $20, and said, "Do you have a more expensive wine?" The intention of the buyer, apparently, was to impress the person who would be receiving the gift. We have more expensive wines at Harney's, but none, arguably, more sarisfying than Gentil "Hugel." A sister wine: Vina Borja is 100% Garnacha, which Harney's offers in both 750 L and 1.5 L. Even though Vina Borja is a red wine, in the heat of summer, I like to serve it, as well as a Beaujolais and Santa Cristina from Italy, slightly chilled, around 60 degrees. I wouldn't do this with most red wines, because flavor would then be sacrificed. If the weather here on Cape Cod ever gets warmer, I intend to offer for tasting these three chilled red wines. May 3, 2008 TOHU SAUVIGNON BLANC 2006 MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND  Think Zinfandel wine, and California immediately comes to mind; think Shiraz, and Australia immediately comes to mind; Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France; Chianti, Tuscany, Italy; Malbec, the Mendoza region of Argentina; think Sauvignon Blanc, and New Zealand immediately comes to mind (more specifically, the Marlborough region in the northeast corner of the South Island), because it is there that the Sauvignon Blanc grape has found its perfect terroir. It is no accident that this grape flourishes there. The Marlborough region, because of its distinctive soil and climate, has the rare capability of being able to ripen Sauvignon Blanc, an upfront and uncomplicated grape, to a near-perefect state. Tohu Sauvignon Blanc 2006 is aromatic, dry (as opposed to sugary sweet), crisp (mouthwatering acidity), fresh (stainless-steel fermented: no oak), fruit-forward (I love the expression: fruit-driven), with flavors of zingy citrus and gooseberry, and with green flavors, which needs further explanation. A synonym for the word: green, in this context, would be herbaceous, like mint, or grassy, like fresh-cut lemongrass. Green flavors in a Sauvignon Blanc wine begin as undertones, but, if the wine is not enjoyed when it is young, they will develop into a bitter taste, just as a fresh-cut lawn smells sweet, but soon wilts and turns bitter. Serve as an aperitif, with leafy salads, with herbed cream sauces, and, because of its citrus flavors, with a fish dish. Harney's has several Sauvignon Blancs from the Marlborough region of New Zealand: Villa Maria (my personal favorite), Nobilo, Crossroads, Monkey Bay, Oyster Bay, and Brancott, to name just a few. There are subtle differences among them: a warmer growing season produces more fruit flavors (including melon), a cooler season produces more herb flavors. NOTES: (1) Tohu vineyard is owned and operated by the Maori, the original inhabitants of New Zealand; (2) Tohu has a screwcap; there is no cork. Horrors! But, all that is gone is the traditional, romantic pop of the cork. A screwcap offers consistency of quality (the wine cannot be tainted by a musty cork) and convenience. Some consumers still associate screwcaps with lower-quality wines. The Sauvignon Blanc produced by Villa Maria vineyards of New Zealand, an elegant and delicious wine, has a screwcap; Big Fire Pinot Gris from Oregon, my favorite Pinot Gris (or Grigio: the same grape), has a screwcap; (3) our own Chef Don here at Ring Bros.is a diehard aficionado of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. April 18, 2008 2005 CHATEAU LA PIERRE LEVEE RED BORDEAUX FRANCE
The wine world owes an inestimable debt of gratitude to France. It is
France
that has given us the major grape varietals: Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Blanc,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah; it is France
that has
originated and perfected so many methods of making wine. The
words:
Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Champagne, Alsace are synonymous
with great
wine.
The 2005 Bordeaux is an exceptional vintage. Even the worst wine maker
(vintner) in Bordeaux produced a good wine. (The same could be said
about 2004
Cabernet Sauvignon in California.) All the non-human factors (terroir):
the
soil, climate, and location of the vineyards all conspired to produce
optimum
conditions for the vintner. And because the vintage is exceptional, it
will
soon be rare. Many of the 2005 wines are no longer available. Most
of the wine throughout this country is purchased on the way home from
work to
be consumed that evening or on the weekend; the price range is usually
between
10 and 15 dolloars. So the wine must be affordable and
drinkable now.
Chateau La Pierre Levee is such a wine. It is one of the "petits
chauteaux" of Bordeaux: young, light- to medium-bodied, approachable
with
its soft fruit. It is a Merlot-based blend: the largest percentage is
Merlot,
with lesser amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon for backbone and depth of
taste,
especially red currant, and Cabernet Franc which adds an earthy aroma
and
taste. In general, Merlot-based wines are produced on the
right side
(eastern) of the Garonne River, and Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines on
the left
side. Bordeaux wines from the right side are better introductory wines
for the
novice Bordeaux drinker because of their softer, more-forward fruit.
Chateau La Pierre Levee is purple-ruby in color, with aromas and tastes
of
black cherry, red currant, and plum, with hints of chocolate and cedar.
It is a
well-balanced wine, harmonizing fruit, acidity, and tannins. As with
most
Bordeaux, it tastes better with food: a grilled steak, a broiled
marinated
portabella mushroom cap. These wine-and-food pairing are only
suggestions,
because, as Robert Parker says: "A good wine served with good food to
good
company is always in good taste." Come
in and visit us at Harney's. We still have several 2005 "petit
chauteaux" Bordeaux. April 5, 2008 CENTINE 2006 BANFI TOSCANA ITALIAN RED WINE 
Ah, Tuscany! Is there any more beautiful, more welcoming, more
delicious place on Earth? I think not! I often find myself wandering
down the narrow alleyways of Siena, staring in awe at the ceiling of
the Baptistry of Saint John in Florence, feeling reverential and humble
in front of the tombs of Galileo, Michelangelo, and Dante. I have never
heard anyone say anything bad about San Francisco or Tuscany.
Tuscany means red, not white, wine, and the principal and greatest red wine grape of Tuscany is Sangiovese (san joe VAY say), a thin-skinned, slow-growing, late-ripening grape. (A future column will be devoted to, arguably, Italy's best white wine: Vernaccia. The 2006 Centine, a blend of 60% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, is a particularly good vintage. It is ruby-red, medium-bodied, dry (as opposed to sweet), intensely fruity (mainly, but not exclusively, the taste of tart cherries), with a well-balanced, integrated acidity. It is this backbone of acidity that makes Centine perfect to drink with any tomato-based dish. A third taste, a new, unique taste, which is contained in neither the wine nor the food, is created. The good offspring of a perfect marriage. For maximum flavor, I suggest serving Centine at around 65 degrees. In general, I feel that we, in America, drink white wines that are too cold, and red wines that are too warm. See what a difference in flavor it makes when you serve whites at around 55 degrees, and reds at around 65 degrees. March 21, 2008 Red Diamond Merlot Washington State  Each
of us has in mind the best Cabernet Sauvignon one has ever tasted, the
best Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, etc. It becomes the
standard by which we judge present and future Cabernets, Chardonnays,
etc. Once a threshold of taste has been crossed, there is no going back
to a lesser taste; one may go forward to new standards, but one is
never satisfied by going back. The most outstanding Merlots produced in this country, arguably in the whole wine world, in my opinion, now come from Washington State. Yes, Washington State! If you want a Merlot with the same predictable taste from the tip of the tongue to the back of the throat, then buy the vast majority - with few exceptions - of California Merlots; satisfying, perhaps, but somewhat dull, to my tastes, mere clones of one another. If you want a rich complexity: a layer of fruity lusciousness, a velvety quality, a layer of spice, and hints - more often than not - of mocha and even prune, then try a Merlot from Washington State. No doubt, the rich, layered complexity, to a great extent, comes from the location of the vineyards on the eastern side of the Cascade Mountains, where the grapes are protected from the Pacific Ocean, and enjoy a long, hot, dry, growing season, in which they can reach optimal, fully ripe flavors. A friend of mine, who was stationed as a member of the Air Force in Washington State in the 1950's, tells me that the main crop at that time was sweet potaotes. What a waste of the super rich volcanic soil and the abundance of cheap irrigation from mountain run-off. Now I like sweet potatoes very much, especially mashed sweet potato puff with melted marshmallows on top, but I don't like sweet potatoes, however made, as much as I like wine, especially a complex Merlot. Washington State Merlots have become the standard by which I judge present and future Merlots. March 8, 2008 Gentil "Hugel" 2005 Alsace, France 
Throughout its history, Alsace in the northeast of France,
across
the Rhine River from Germany, has been a disputed territory, caught in
a tug of war(s), literally, between France and Germany. But there is no
dispute about its wines which remain constant (above the vagaries of
war) and predictably excellent vintage after vintage.When a person goes for the degree of Master of Wine, one of the tests is to identify a particular wine as to its varietal (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Pinot Gris, etc.), its country of origin, its vineyard, and, if possible, its vintner (winemaker). I would probably fail the test, except if the wine I was attempting to identify was from Alsace. There is no more distinctive wine in the world - especially the Gewurztraminer - than a wine from Alsace, France. TERROIR, the non-human elements (varietal, soil, climate, location) in the making of a wine, is what gives Alsace wine its distinctive aroma and taste. The lesson of the inescapability and determinism of TERROIR was learned when California attempted to make a wine rivaling the great Chianti's of Tuscany, Italy. What California produced, in the best cases, was a tasty wine, but in no way, shape, or form did it taste, even remotely, like an Italian Chianti. The Sangiovese grape grows to its fullest potential only in the soil and climate of Tuscany. Gentil "Hugel," a blend of white grapes by Hugel, a family that has been making wine since 1639, is equally well-suited to food as it is to drinking on its own. It is pleasingly aromatic, gently dry, round, low in acidity, buttery, exhibiting a creamy, honeyed richness, with hints of apple, citrus, and peach. Gentil "Hugel" is an ideal introduction to the wines of Alsace. March 3, 2008 SOL CLARO MALBEC
In my opinion, and to my own personal tastes, this wine is, arguably, one of the top 10 most delicious wines at Harney's. Originally, the Malbec grape was French, from the Bordeaux region; it had limited success in the Old World. It was used for blending, adding color and tannin (for structure and backbone) to the wine. Argentina, the fourth largest wine producer in the world, has taken the Malbec grape, especially in this particular wine, and turned it into a lush and complex, medium- to full-bodied wine of intense ruby color, exhibiting rich and spicy dark fruit, with a long, smooth, soft finish. Years ago, when I first tasted a Malbec wine, it resonated deeply in me, but I couldn't name or place the dominant, distinctive flavor. Only recently have I been able to identify it: the aroma and flavor is unmistakably elderberry. My grandmother, in a small coal-mining town in Pennsylvania, had elderberry bushes at the bottom of her yard near the alleyway. Drinking Malbec now, brings me back 60 years, and adds a personal, warm, satisfying dimension to an already rewarding experience. A word about ORGANIC wines: The grapes are grown without fungicides, pesticides, or chemical fertilizers, with no additives or preservatives, which brings me to the topic of SULFITES: sulfites occur naturally during fermentation. Thus, all wines contain sulfites, even organic wines. Sulfites, as a preservative, prevent wine from turning into vinegar, and serve as an antioxidant, protecting a wine from the harmful influence of oxygen. Dry, red wines contain the least amount of sulfites, followed by dry white, and sweet wines contain the most sulfites. The bad effects some people experience after drinking a red wine is probably due to the antihistamine properties of the red wine and not to the sulfites. Many organic wine producers now specify on the label: NO ADDED SULFITES. |
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